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Aluminium weatherboard cladding is Knotwood's overlapping board profile, engineered to replicate the classic weatherboard look board for board. Each board laps over the one below it, casting the same shadow line a timber weatherboard casts, in a single 150mm width that matches the profile on most existing UK weatherboard houses closely enough for a re-clad to read as a refresh rather than a change of character.
This is the profile for homeowners who want the weatherboard house look without the upkeep, and for renovation projects replacing timber weatherboards that have started to fail. It suits coastal and exposed sites, where weatherboarding is the local vernacular anyway and where timber has the hardest time. It also works on new builds after a traditional exterior that will not need scaffolding again in five years.
Weatherboard shares the same aluminium construction, concealed fixings and architectural-grade finishes as the rest of Knotwood's cladding range, with 304 or 316 grade stainless steel fasteners. Aluminium does not swell, rot or hold moisture at the laps, which is where a timber weatherboard fails first, and the powder coated or sublimated finish does not need the repainting cycle timber does.
Weatherboard comes in a single 150mm board width. Boards install with a tab-lock fixing system, each one hooking onto a concealed starter and locking into the board below, so no fixings show on the finished face.
Each Weatherboard board hooks onto a tab-lock starter at the base and swings flush against the substructure, secured with a concealed cladding clip. Installation works from the bottom up, one board locking into the next, finishing with a cover trim pressed over the base trim to close the perimeter.
A tab-lock starter trim is fixed to the base trim around the perimeter of the cladding area, giving the first Weatherboard board a secure hook point to swing onto and setting up every board that follows in the same system.
Base and cover trims run the perimeter of a Weatherboard run, concealing fixings around wall edges, windows and doors, and pressing together for a clean finished line wherever the cladding starts or stops.
Reversable corner trims let a Weatherboard run continue cleanly around both internal and external corners. Boards install up to the corner, then a corner cover trim presses into the corner base trim to finish the join.
Customise your colours to suit your design style.
Install boards vertically or horizontally to align with your architectural vision.
Aluminium weatherboard cladding is an overlapping board system that reproduces the look of traditional timber weatherboarding in extruded aluminium. Knotwood’s version is a 150mm tab-lock board available in solid colours or a timber-grain finish. It gives the same stepped profile and shadow lines without painting, rot or replacement.
Visually they are close to identical. In service they are not. Timber weatherboarding needs repainting roughly every four to six years, and it rots at the laps and the bottom board where water sits. Aluminium weatherboards will not swell, rot or feed wood-boring beetle, and the finish is baked on rather than brushed on.
Yes. This is one of the strongest cases for it. The 150mm board reproduces the existing profile closely enough that a re-clad reads as a refresh rather than a change of character, which matters on a weatherboard house in a conservation area. It also lets you clad one elevation and leave the rest.
All three avoid the repainting cycle that timber needs, so the differences are material rather than maintenance. Aluminium is extruded rather than moulded, so the board holds a sharper profile edge and a more consistent lap line across a long run. It is also recyclable at end of life, where composite boards combine a polymer binder with wood flour and are harder to reprocess. Fixings, trims and corner details are the same aluminium system throughout rather than a separate accessory range.
Knotwood’s weatherboard profile is classified A2-s1,d0 to BS EN 13501-1. Under Approved Document B, A2-s1,d0 is a material of limited combustibility rather than non-combustible, which is Class A1. The classification applies to the board as tested, finish included. For a specific building, and particularly for height-related requirements, confirm the classification report reference and the applicable provisions with our team and your fire engineer before specifying.
Boards hook into a tab-lock starter and swing back onto the sub-structure, then a 45mm cladding clip fixes each board into the sub-frame.
Aluminium does not rot or rust the way timber and steel do, which makes it a sensible choice on the coast where weatherboarding is a common vernacular anyway. Stainless steel fasteners in 304 or 316 grade suit exposed conditions, and 316 is the grade specified where salt exposure is a factor.
The two get used interchangeably in the UK but they aren’t quite the same thing. A traditional weatherboard is a tapered board that overlaps the one below, throwing water clear of the joint. Shiplap cladding uses a rebated joint so the boards sit flatter against each other, usually with a rounded groove along the top edge. Knotwood’s 150mm tab-lock board gives the lapped horizontal line most people are after from either, in aluminium rather than timber. If you’re matching an existing elevation, send us a photo and we’ll tell you how close the profile reads.
Yes. Horizontal is the traditional orientation and the one most people picture, but vertical installation works with the same board and trims, and it changes how a building reads: horizontal emphasises width and settles a building down, vertical draws the eye up and suits a narrow frontage or a tall gable. The substructure changes with the orientation, since battens run perpendicular to the boards, so it needs deciding before the framing goes up.
Boards fix to a supporting framework rather than straight onto the wall, which creates the cavity a rainscreen build-up needs so water that gets past the face can drain and the wall behind can dry. The framework can be aluminium, steel or treated timber depending on the wall and the requirements of the building. Cavity depth, breather membrane and fixing centres are project-specific, so send us a section through the wall and we’ll confirm the detail.
With trims matched to the profile and finish, so external corners, reveals and the base of the wall close out properly rather than showing a cut board end. Reveals are worth setting out early, because where the boards meet a window frame is one of the first things the eye lands on, and on a lapped profile the lines either align across the opening or they don’t. Send us the elevations and we’ll work the setout through before manufacture.
Often, and it’s a common renovation route on a UK house where the boards have gone but the structure hasn’t. What decides it is the condition of what’s underneath: the existing boards and the wall behind need to be sound enough to carry the framework and the loads on it. Rot at the base course, which is where timber goes first, usually means stripping back rather than covering over. Send us photos and we’ll tell you what’s involved.
Aluminium moves with temperature more than timber does, which is why the fixing method is specified rather than left to site judgement. The system allows for that movement, so boards aren’t fixed rigidly at every point in a way that would cause buckling on a hot south-facing elevation. It matters more on long uninterrupted runs and on darker finishes, which run hotter in direct sun.
Boards are manufactured to order rather than held in every finish, so lead time depends on the profile, the finish and the quantity. Standard powder coated colours and timber grain finishes run faster than a bespoke colour. Cladding usually sits between the roof going on and the scaffold coming down, so if the programme has fixed dates, talk to us early and we’ll confirm what’s achievable.
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